Mark Smalley

Sunday, 20 Mar - Paihia
Daylight saving ended early this morning, so the clocks got turned back an hour. Wonder how many tourists have missed a flight because of this.

Sun rises at 0630 but disappears 15 min later behind the clouds that seem to be doing an albatross on us.

At 0845 we're off to see the Kauri trees about 50 km north. Quite a lot of dead possums on the road, occasionally with a bird of prey around. A stop at the Forest Lookout gives views looking down on the forest. Seems like the albatross has pushed off for a while. We ask about walks at Visitor Centre. 12 km further along there are short walks to the big Kauri's. $2 donation for the parking attendant. On a good day he has about 100 cars. I ask him whether he's ever seen a kiwi; only in captivity, he replies. Civilised pathways through the forest. Could be a way of describing NZ: accessible nature.
The oldest and widest tree has a circumference of 16 m and is 30 m high, about half the girth and a bit more than a third of the height of the biggest Sequoia in the USA, General Sherman. But it's still a venerable example, judged to be between 2000 and 4000 years old.

Around midday we make our way east, stopping occasionally. At a short break at a Visitors Centre I ask the lady the kiwi question. She has, just once and recently, while driving. It was in the middle of the road during the day. She almost killed it.

Calling in briefly at Kerikeri but deciding to give it a miss, we end up at 1530 in Paihia in the Bay of Islands. The Paihia Pacific (www.paihiapacific.co.nz ) has a special on: they've put out a couple of$149 rooms for $99 and we take one for 2 nights. Warmly welcomed and advised about boat trips (www.fboi.co.nz & www.dolphincruises.co.nz ), because that's one of the main attractions here. Nicely furnished and well equipped, we're happy with the room. There are a couple of lemon trees in the hallway, lovely strong smell.

We take a walk through the town and along the beach, book a dolphin (and maybe whale) watching cruise, passing 6 islands on the way, for tomorrow morning from Kings for $62 each.

The girl at the Woolworths check-out hasn't seen a kiwi either, except in the zoo.

As we're on the coast we must have some fish and chips. Very busy place run by 2 Maouri women does us 2 hapuka and chips for $11.80. Don't know what hapuka is but others are ordering it. It's a meaty fish, very tasty. They also have hoki and dory fish.

Mileage is up to 1979 km now.

posted by Mark Smalley @ 5:09 PM