Monday, March 14, 2005


Monday, 14 Mar - Napier
We're off pretty sharpish this morning as we've got an appointment with the Lady Knox Geyser at 1015. Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland (www.geyserland.co.nz ) is situated about 30 km south of Rotorua just off Hwy 5.
An employee explains slowly and clearly “because there are some Australians present” about the geyser. It is prompted by a bit of artificial soap and blows for more that 30 min. Lots of 'been there, done that' people start leaving after a minute. We stay to get our money's worth.
Once I've got over the $20 entrance fee and feeling out of place because I'm not wearing sandals or trainers, shorts and a silly holiday hat, it's really quite fun wandering in between all the bubbling and steaming pools. Surprisingly, we spend more than 3 hours there. Billy Connolly's World Tour of NZ was on TV yesterday and he was here as well.

Driving on, my conspiracy theory about NZ Lamb being a mythe is dispelled. While I wasn't exactly expecting them to be roaming Auckland city centre, until now we have only one or two sheep, not anything near enough to support a whole industry. But now we are apparently in different country because various flocks are to be seen. Still not the millions I'd expected though.

The drive to the art deco town of Napier takes us 3 hours, less than we'd expected. Visitor information suggests the Garden Loft, a B&B without the 2nd B for $65. It's in a separate building from the old villa that survived the earthquake in 1931, built around 1890. Welcomed with tea and coffee by the friendly lady who runs it. She also has some suggestions for things to do including a walk along the coast to Cape Kidnappers Gannet Colony, starting at Clifton (south of Napier).

One of her two daughters wants an empty can for an art project and empties a can of Fosters in the sink, which she justifies saying that it expired as of Jan 2004. I didn't know that beer could expire.

At 1830 we walk down the flights of steps to town level to take a look at the Art Deco buildings. Napier has very hilly residential areas. Most of the buildings are painted in light colours and the streets are fairly broad, which gives a very pleasant feel to the place. There are 93 objects in the official Art Deco Walk (www.artdeconapier.com ) and although we don't count them, we see a lot of them.
The town is pretty dead at this time of day but is livened up by plenty of cars with loud air intakes and assertive driving styles, something we've also noticed elsewhere in NZ.

Once again it's fish and chips, the 'i' in fish (and in chips, for that matter) of course being pronounced more like a 'u' here, just as the 'e' is more like an 'i'. I haven't yet discovered what they do with the 'u'. It may be silent.
Our dilemma is do we go for 2 fish and 1 chips for $6.50 or 3+2 for $2 more. Maybe with yesterdays 6 fish in mind we take 3+2 but it was really too much. We decide that tomorrows main meal will be something salady.

We're back home at 2000 and drive to a supermarket to get some fresh and healthy food. Hardy's Sauvignon Blanc is on offer for an irresistible $5.89.

Car talk: our distance today was 704-467=237 km. Yesterday we tanked 25 l for $31 after 376 km, about 15 km per liter.
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